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| Hello, that is one among our (nearly) each day tastings. Santé! |
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July 15, 2024
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Among the finest French Whiskies to rejoice Bastille Day
A day too late, as Bastille Day was yesterday, the 14th of July, however it was additionally Malternative Day on WF. Apart from, at Château WF, we’re not notably nationalistic and even “patriotic,” provided that we imagine if there’s one act in our lives from which we will derive completely no private advantage, it is being born someplace. We now have at present greater than 130 distilleries making whisky in France.
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Throughout the French Nationwide Meeting, in 1789
the marquis de La Fayette aka Lafayette, drafted
the primary Déclaration des Droits de l’Homme
(Declaration of the Rights of Man), which was
closely impressed by the American Declaration.
(Joseph-Désiré Courtroom — Réunion des
musées nationaux.) |
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Cezallier ‘Zagat Fils du Feu’ (52.1%, Le Faiseur de Malts, France, lot #TT18A, 436 bottles, 2023) 
Right here we’re in Auvergne with a whisky distilled in a pot nonetheless heated over a unadorned flame, a mix of 4 malted grains: triticale, barley, rye, and spelt. Aged in refill oak casks and offered in a really pretty bottle. Color: deep gold. Nostril: an impressively thick and wealthy profile, with a pronounced word of rancio, darkish nougat, pumpernickel, and banana cake drizzled with caramel, alongside a faint metallic and earthy trace. We then drift in direction of the aged agricoles Rums from Martinique and barely old skool whiskies marked by an equally old skool sherry, paying homage to Michel Couvreur’s outdated malts. With water: intriguingly, it smells like a nonetheless in full swing. Mouth (neat): a moderately wealthy assault, with ample darkish chocolate, pepper, malt extracts, and an array of numerous breads, notably darkish ones. Roasted chestnuts and a contact of outdated oloroso dulce emerge. With water: a lot fruitier, nearly light, however the burnt bread crust word lingers within the aftertaste. Leather-based. End: lengthy, with a delightful bitterness. A really mild natural liqueur word, then extra orange liqueur and rancio. Feedback: wealthy and nice. It stays to be seen which of the 4 malts stands out. Maybe the spelt? I’m unsure, however I just lately had spelt bread, and it considerably jogs my memory of that.
SGP:561 – 85 factors. |
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Artesia ‘Tourbé’ (46%, OB, Whisky des Hauts de France, France, +/-2023)
After all, ‘tourbé’ means peated. We tasted two Artesia whiskies two years in the past and located them fairly good. The Hauts de France are within the north of France. Color: pale white wine. Nostril: very pretty lemon sprinkled over chalk and ashes. Including to this are very expressive notes of Sauvignon blanc, in addition to lime, rhubarb, and barely underripe kiwi. The general impression may be very clear and works completely, I guarantee you. I forgot to say, the peated barley malt comes from Scotland. Higher that than North Korea, I suppose. Mouth: a mixture of Caol Ila, mezcal, and gentian if you understand what I imply. The physique may be very barely skinny, however that is completely not an issue. Oysters arrive a couple of minutes later. End: moderately lengthy, with lemony ashes, oysters, and a little bit of white pepper. A lightweight vanilla word is available in a bit later. Feedback: it is ultra-clean.
SGP:565 – 86 factors. |
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Wambrechies ‘Madeira’ (44.5%, OB, France, +/-2024)
Right here’s one other malt from northern France, aged 8 years in Madeira casks. Wambrechies/Claeyssens, who’ve been making genever for 2 centuries, had been pioneers of whisky in France for the reason that Nineties. I keep in mind they had been among the many only a few names that didn’t come from the massive 4 whisky nations we used to say on the early web boards. Comfortable to see them again in our glass, the north has all the time been a land of grains! Color: gold. Nostril: so sometimes Madeira. Walnuts and mustard, plus a little bit of leather-based, nutmeg, cigar tobacco, and a really, very slight vinegar word. Add a contact of damp earth, crushed slate, and orchard leaves, particularly peach. Mouth: wonderful, distinctive, with much more walnuts and leather-based, plus mustard and tobacco. A touch of fruit-flavoured liquorice (oranges) completes the profile and provides a contemporary contact. A touch of fennel. End: medium size, related profile, all the time refreshing. Extra oranges and grapefruit within the aftertaste. Feedback: I find it irresistible, it’s good. Using Madeira is completed with the precision of a Chaux-de-Fonds watchmaker. Actually glad to see them once more – I imply Wambrechies.
SGP:661 – 87 factors. |
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Hordeum 2019/2023 ‘Cerealis’ (48%, LMDW, Model Française) 
Distilled in an Armagnac-style column nonetheless from Scarlett spring barley and aged in new French oak. No time to determine which distillery that is from, presumably from the Jura area, however I wouldn’t wager on it. Color: gold. Nostril: contemporary bread, contemporary sawdust, sponge cake, then a barely overripe apple. It’s totally simple, very compact, with out a lot protruding. Mouth: fruitier on the palate, a bit heat, with ripe plums, vanilla, a little bit of nutmeg and cinnamon, then apple tarte. A contact of cane sugar. End: medium size, burnt wooden, apple turnover with honey and maple syrup. Feedback: nice, flawless, doing its job very effectively however maybe not with tons of character, as they are saying.
SGP:551 – 80 factors. |
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Biersky (59.6%, OB, Distillerie Bertrand, France, beer and malt eau-de-vie, 2023)
A mix of younger malt spirit (40%) and beer spirit (60%) made right here in Uberach in Alsace by Bertrand and their wizard Jean Metzger. So, it isn’t precisely whisky, however it’s not precisely not whisky both (don’t quote me). I’ve tried earlier batches earlier than, Biersky being a favorite in lots of Alsatian eating places, however I’m unsure I’ve ever written any notes. Maybe in an outdated forgotten pocket book? Color: full gold. Nostril: we’re in whisky territory, it’s not the ultra-floral aspect of some very hoppy beer spirits, however moderately luggage and luggage of mirabelles and apricots. A really good earthy aspect, although I can’t say if it comes from the beer. With water: slight saponification after including Vittel, then candy apples and maybe a touch of hops. Hops are an Alsatian specialty; I keep in mind once I first tasted Lagunitas in California way back, I discovered the hops had been from… Alsace. Mouth (neat): a definite pear eau-de-vie character, but in addition masala and different spices, curries, ras-el-hanout… I actually like this. Numerous fruit peels. With water: wonderful, much more on pear, vanilla, and a little bit of wooden. End: related. Feedback: I like this Biersky, and it appears like this current batch is even higher than the earlier ones. If you happen to’re at a restaurant and torn between an eau-de-vie and a whisky, select a Biersky!
SGP:640 – 85 factors. |
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Armorik ‘Basic’ (46%, OB, France, bourbon, +/-2022)
Right here we’re with Warenghem in Brittany, one of many simple leaders of French whisky. I’ve tasted the Basic again in 2011, and it was already fairly good (WF 82). And I prefer it when a whisky isn’t given an excessively fancy identify, even when it’s NAS. Color: white wine. Nostril: contemporary, with gooseberries, apples, a discreet contact of vanilla, and a few freshly reduce grass, with a touch of pastis. Breton pastis, after all. It’s easy, exact, and nice. Mouth: good fruitiness, certainly traditional, with apples, plums, peach, contemporary barley, white pepper, and tea (wooden). End: medium size, apple and barley. Feedback: I nonetheless agree with myself (and that’s no small feat). An excellent younger malt, not extravagant in any respect.
SGP:441 – 82 factors. |
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Definitely, the opposite…
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Warenghem 9 yo 2014/2024 (59.6%, Swell de Spirits, Wild Nature collection, France, 1st fill oloroso butt, cask #3531) 
Yep, Warenghem = Armorik. One other excellent label from Swell d.S. Color: full gold. Nostril: a tad heat however the pecan nut pie, barely candy and salty, and peanut butter notes appear fairly good. Water is required to discover additional. With water: dill, fennel, mint, dried seaweed, walnut wine, cigars… Mouth (neat): it appears top-notch, sharp, lemony, very full of life whereas being sturdy, very a lot on bitter and roasted nuts… With water: a competition! Salt, lemon, nuts, pecans, a contact of brine, very dry raisins, pipe tobacco, bitter oranges, artichoke liqueur, and so forth. End: lengthy and much more bitter. Splendidly bitter and peppery. It ought to be tried as an addition to beer (Breton beer, after all). Feedback: a stunning beast, considerably the other of the very light ‘traditional’, as anticipated.
SGP:472 – 88 factors. |
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Armorik 13 yo 2009/2023 (60.6%, The Auld Alliance, France/Singapore, cask #8241)
I like this motto on the label, “Ne Jamais Dire Jamais.” By no means say by no means, feels a bit like a James Bond film. Like, delivery some French whisky to a well-known bar in Singapore. Color: full gold. Nostril: a number of hints of cherry brandy, then some damp earth, however it’s kind of sturdy to nostril with out restraint. With water: earthy notes, tobaccos, linseed oil, paraffin, toasted sesame oil, outdated leather-based (Connolly, after all) … Mouth (neat): ah, wonderful! Beautiful earthy and spicy character, nuts in all their kinds, cherries, extra cherries, drops of seawater, quince… With water: hazelnut cake, walnuts, almonds, pecans, macadamias, pine nuts… And a touch of fir wooden certainly. Very mild sulphur, suggesting a wine cask. End: lengthy, extra on leaves, stems, fruit skins, and the eternal nuts. Feedback: extraordinarily completely different, however roughly on the identical stage because the “Swell.”
SGP:461 – 88 factors. |
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St Palais ‘Pointe Blanche’ (43%, Le Cercle, single malt, France, +/-2023) 
Distilled in Cognac stills within the Cognac area, and completed in ex-peater casks – in-cask mixing as we are saying – which isn’t fairly my most popular methodology however there, I suppose solely the outcomes rely. Color: white wine. Nostril: it appears to work, it is very mild, there are a number of whiffs of cigarette smoke (keep in mind cigarette smoke?) and pear. This peaty pear aspect will also be present in very younger Caol Ila, for example. Aside from that, it appears fairly innocent… Mouth: extra presence, a little bit of ginger liqueur, elderflower liqueur too, citron, muesli, white pepper, a little bit of peppery apple juice… Frankly, it is nice and goes down simply. End: nearly refreshing, barely salty, with hints of buckwheat and even a contact of pineapple. Feedback: maybe the gentlest peated whisky on this planet. As Nick & Nick wrote in your WF a very long time in the past, (What’s So Humorous ‘Bout) Peace, Love and Understanding?
SGP:543 – 83 factors. |
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Wait, there’s additionally a boosted model…
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St Palais ‘Pointe Blanche – OLO’ (50.2%, Le Cercle, single malt, France, oloroso end, 2,400 bottles, +/-2023)
So long as it’s oloroso, we’re advantageous. Simply saying. Color: gold. Nostril: leather-based, tobacco, inexperienced walnuts, equally inexperienced apples, being inside a flower and vegetable greenhouse, contemporary almonds, asparagus and turnips… this very vegetal aspect fits me completely. Additionally, notes of honey and contemporary gingerbread. With a little bit of water: kougelhopf and contemporary panettone. We’re getting there, full pace forward… Mouth (neat): superb. Many distilleries these days produce related whiskies, from Japan to Argentina by way of South Africa and Italy, however that takes nothing away from their respective deserves. With water: superb. Honey, sweet sugar, muffins, icing, nuts, vanilla, apple jelly… End: medium size, candy, nice, flawless. Extra nuts and oak within the aftertaste. Feedback: jogs my memory of a few of the new Irish whiskies. Wonderful, maybe simply not extraordinarily memorable.
SGP:541 – 84 factors. |
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I deeply remorse not having the time to delve into the topic of French whiskies, not to mention go to the distilleries. Some lie lower than 50 kilometres from WF Towers, and but I can not actually go to see them. There are simply so many… Proper, again to Brittany we go…
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Eddu 2017/2023 (54%, OB, for LMDW New Vibrations, cognac cask, cask #W08109, 300 bottles)
Pure ‘blé noir’/buckwheat whisky. Using a cognac cask may appear a tad disappointing, however it’s a multi-fill cask, so most likely fairly insignificant. As for the seminal query, “is buckwheat a cereal?” let’s simply say we do not actually care. Color: white wine. Nostril: violets, pineapples, Szechuan pepper, hibiscus and jasmine, then the final word IPA, bursting with ultra-aromatic hops. With water: much more beer-like. Mouth (neat): I find it irresistible, it’s obtained the whole lot besides ‘whisky’. Calvados, pear liqueur, aquavit, rosewater, mandarin liqueur, Mei Kwei Lu… is sorghum near buckwheat? An everlasting novice’s query. With water: pear and rose take the lead. It is like a cocktail sipped on the Bosphorus, watching the boats sail by. End: mandarin liqueur, pink pepper, roses, flower liqueurs. Feedback: a considerably mad whisky, terribly clean however by no means cloying, fairly the other. Some elements reminded us of Biersky! Fairly loopy, love this one too.
SGP:830 – 85 factors. |
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No want to go away Brittany, particularly since we nonetheless have Kornog. We beloved Kornog, however they disappeared from our radar. I hope all is effectively over there, and that they proceed to distil in accordance with the founder’s ideas. Good luck, Kornog!
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Kornog 2016/2023 (52.7%, Swell de Spirits, Wonders of the World collection, 90 bottles) 
A double maturation, apparently, however I am certain that is not an issue. Color: white wine. Nostril: the spectacular smoky purity of Kornog, between new plastic, lime zest, and seawater. Voilà. With water: chic, one of many biggest European malts together with Millstone and Smögen. No, the UK has left Europe, didn’t you understand? Mouth (neat): insanely elegant. Rosemary, thyme, lemon, menthol cigarettes, oysters, crab… With water: very spectacular. It’s Venus rising from the ocean, in whisky kind. Think about, solely 6 or 7 years outdated. End: a bit heat and disordered, nearly rustic, however that provides one other dimension. I am certain it’s the fault of that double maturation. Feedback: completely chic, even when it misplaced 1 level on the end. I agree, there are extra vital issues on this planet proper now.
SGP:566 – 91 factors.
Replace: this from a bottle that is been breating for a number of months. |
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Kornog 8 yo 2015/2023 ‘Quelque Half Dans le Ciel’ (57.9%, La Maison du Whisky, Ex Libris, France, 1st fill bourbon, cask #21008)
Someplace within the skies certainly. Simply hope it isn’t a testomony. One of the crucial elegant collection of whiskies ever bottled, in my humble opinion. Okay, okay, perhaps it is only a tad elitist, pricey La Maison. Color: white wine. Nostril: wheat, hay, white tea, inexperienced tea, and a curious trace of recreation and truffle. Poularde, chardonnay, mushrooms, rubber… With water: ink and wax emerge. Modelling clay. Mouth (neat): my goodness! It’s much less assertive than the 2016, however maybe extra elegantly full of life, let’s assume. Elastic bands, salt, zest, and turpentine. Olive oil, basil, lemon. With water: and extra olive oil! Olive oil will save the world (along with lemon). End: lengthy however well-mannered, moderately on almond milk and barley syrup. A couple of winkles within the aftertaste, in spite of everything, we’re in Brittany. Feedback: that’s the loopy factor about nice whiskies, it’s as if somebody despatched you a letter in 2015, and also you’re studying it in 2024. That stated, with the very relative performances of the ultra-unionised La Poste, we wouldn’t even be shocked. No, after all, we love them, we ship them 1000’s of kisses and hugs.
SGP:555 – 90 factors. |
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