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Don’s Mai Tai, a Forgotten Tiki Cocktail, Makes a Comeback

Don’s Mai Tai, a Forgotten Tiki Cocktail, Makes a Comeback

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Everybody is aware of the Mai Tai, a drink consisting of aged rum, lime, Curaçao and orgeat that was invented by Victor “Dealer Vic” Bergeron in California within the Nineteen Forties. It’s been standard ever since, residing on in tiki tradition, tropical resort cities, Polynesian and Chinese language eating places and common previous bars. However far fewer bargoers are conscious that there’s one other Mai Tai floating round within the recesses of tiki historical past: Don’s Mai Tai. At Devil’s Whiskers in London, nonetheless, Daniel Waddy and his staff are turning their patrons on to its charms.

Jeff “Beachbum” Berry’s Complete Tiki app asserts that the Donn Seashore Mai Tai—also referred to as the Mai Tai Swizzle—possible happened within the Nineteen Fifties. Berry writes that Seashore was possible pushed into creating his personal Mai Tai to rival the one at Dealer Vic’s—which is just truthful, provided that Don the Beachcomber was Vic’s chief inspiration for his bar. However Phoebe Seashore, Donn’s widow, claimed in her 2001 guide, Hawai‘i Tropical Rum Drinks and Delicacies by Don the Beachcomber (which she wrote together with her husband, Arnold Bitner), that Donn Seashore had invented a drink referred to as the Mai Tai in 1933.


Waddy of Devil’s Whiskers factors out that, sure, Seashore might have recognized the Tahitian phrase “maita‘i” from his travels within the South Pacific and that Bergeron might have picked up the title from him. The factor is, even when this had been the case, Seashore’s model bears no resemblance to Vic’s in any respect—and consequently, doesn’t look very similar to a Mai Tai to our fashionable eyes. “There’s a typical title,” says Waddy, “nevertheless it’s positively not the identical drink.” The recipe revealed in Seashore and Bitner’s guide requires each Jamaican and Cuban rums, falernum, Cointreau, lime, grapefruit, Angostura bitters and Pernod. The combination is shaken with cracked ice, served in a rocks glass and garnished with mint and pineapple.


Waddy characterizes Don’s Mai Tai as a “small-format Zombie,” with basic “Don-isms” like grapefruit, falernum and absinthe, which could be present in an incredible lots of his “rhum rhapsodies.” At Devil’s Whiskers, the recipe stays comparatively near the unique, however with one large change to the bottom: slicing out the Cuban rum completely, which brings down the general ABV of the drink—it’s a mini Zombie that you may have a couple of of. “Generally you don’t wish to drink an entire Zombie,” he explains, however you wish to expertise these flavors.

For the remaining rum, Waddy isn’t too fussy about which expression is included, noting solely that it shouldn’t be too boozy or too funky. “You need some kind of aged Jamaican rum within the form of 40-ish ABV mark,” he says. “You need a few of these Jamaican ester-y flavors.” At Devil’s Whiskers, bartenders usually attain for Appleton 8-year, however Waddy says the model’s Signature mix would additionally work, as would a extra basic “darkish rum” like Myers’s.

Although the unique Don’s Mai Tai recipe referred to as for Cointreau, the model at Devil’s Whiskers opts for Curaçao as a substitute. This selection reads as a nod to the much more well-known Dealer Vic’s Mai Tai and its showcase of Curaçao, whereas additionally shifting the general taste of the drink. “While you’re utilizing it along with grapefruit juice,” says Waddy, “it makes for slightly bit extra of a rounded profile moderately than the intense and zingy profile [of triple sec].” At Devil’s Whiskers, bar workers use Edmond Briottet, however Waddy says Pierre Ferrand would additionally work nicely on this drink.

For the falernum, Waddy reaches for the well-established trade favourite John D Taylor’s Velvet Falernum. Although he affirms that there are loads of nice falernums out there with a spread of complicated and “extra pervasive” flavors, the Taylor’s product “performs nicely with others”—an essential high quality in a drink with eight components. Like the unique does, he additionally makes use of Pernod’s absinthe.

The Don’s Mai Tai at Devil’s Whiskers is shaken and dumped right into a double rocks glass, then topped with crushed ice and garnished with mint (like Vic’s Mai Tai), a lime wedge and a brandied cherry. The crushed ice mellows out the heavier components of the drink. “It’s wealthy, however nonetheless one thing that you possibly can drink on a sizzling day,” says Waddy. In comparison with Dealer Vic’s extra well-known variation, he appreciates that “it’s a kind of subtler, extra nuanced form of creation.”



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